Friday, April 6, 2012

Gaultier at the De Young



It takes a minute once you walk into the Gaultier show at the De Young Museum, to figure out whether the mannequins are alive or not. Their eyes seem to follow you, they open and close their mouths, heck they even address you directly. But they are too still, some of the faces seem to repeat, and there is just something well, off.

The revelation that the mannequins do not, in fact, have a soul and are simply projections, do nothing to diminish their impact. They make the clothes literally come alive, with a power akin to performance art. Below are my photographs of the show, as you can see, they look like Wagnerian Opera figures, fleshy but not of this world.







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Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Vintage Shopping Guide: New York Edition

I always get a lot of questions about where I have bought pieces of my vintage collection. The answer is, all over; I'm always keeping an eye out for great finds. But I find myself returning to some stores over and over, drawn by their selection, curatorial taste, and value. Here is a list of some of my favorites, so go forth and shop.

I will also update my sidebar with the names and addresses of these stores for easy reference. And keep an eye out for new cities and additions. 



Manhattan

Amarcord- The Soho branch of this vintage house focuses on European designers such as Missoni, YSL, Mugler (you know, all the good ones). The prices are on the higher side, but reasonable given the quality of the pieces and Lafayette street location. (Women and Men's wear)

Edith Machinist: Walk down a couple steps and find yourself in vintage shoe heaven. Shoes, boots, and bags cover nearly every surface with their perfectly worn leather. But be sure to check out the clothes too, I've bought some great pieces here. (Women's wear)

Narnia Vintage: I always find something I love in this tiny store on Rivington. Featuring a killer mix of contemporary consigned pieces and beautiful vintage pieces, it's hard to leave this place empty handed. I find that the vintage is reasonably priced here while the consignment pieces really pay the rent. (Women's wear)

Ritual Vintage (formerly Exquisite Costume): If you are looking for truly old pieces, from the 1910's- 1940's this is the place to come. Best of all, the pieces are all still wearable and good condition. There is also a selection of newer designer pieces but the strength really lies in the older stuff. (Women's wear)

What goes Around Comes Around: This is definitely one of the pricier vintage stores you will find, but expect that extra cash to buy unforgettable pieces and excellent service. It's like the buyers know how to buy the perfect example of every vintage piece- the perfect denim jacket, the perfect sweater, the perfect gauzy dress. Definitely ask the shopgirls about lower priced pieces, because they are still pretty awesome even if they don't carry a designer tag. (Women and Men's wear)

Williamsburg

Amarcord: The Williamsburg branch is like Soho's little sister; the clothes tend to be less mature, a little funkier, and definitely cheaper. Although I feel like the quality of some of the pieces has gone down at this location, I still find the occassional gem at a great price. (Women and Men's wear)

Beacons closet: If patience isn't one of your virtues, don't go here. To add fuel to the fire, whoever controls the music is obviously a sadist because they play the absolute worst bands I've ever heard. BUT if you can make it through that, this massive warehouse of used clothing is an absolute treasure trove of vintage and designer finds on the cheap. (Women and Men's wear)

Le Grand Strip: What I truly appreciate about the owner, CC's, taste is that she embraces all that is fun, feminine, and sexy. The clothes that she selects really work on a woman's body, especially for those trying to impress a gentleman. (Women's wear)

10ft Single by Stella Dallas: This store is an excellent combination of thrift and vintage. The front end is devoted to clothes from the 1980s on, at prices that is every hipster's dream. But be sure to wander into the back room that holds the real vintage pieces. The only bummer about this shop is the entire lack of any help from the employees, they just don't really give a shit.

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Thursday, March 29, 2012

This is a Man's World (But it wouldn't be nothing, nothing without a woman or a girl)


Leave it up to Miuccia Prada to bring the sexy back into fashion. To do that, she had to bring a man's eye to women's fashion.

Women and cars, with a healthy dose of 1950s nostalgia, serve as inspiration for the latest spring collection. But I would argue that the collection is really designed for the men who drive those cars and the women who dress for the men. 

In a season of demure hemlines and delicate florals, Prada counters with bandeau tops, pencil skirts, and bright pops of crimson. She even goes so far as to turn the women into cars, with tailpipe fire shoes, colors reminiscent of auto-paint, and prints that seem branded by"spray-painting mechanic boyfriends".

The gaze of the invisible man has been expertly translated by a 62 year old woman. In a way, this is a collection about how a woman thinks a man thinks a woman should dress. I love these collages (although she stole my idea) as a way to see the 1950s from Miuccia's perspective translated into the collection.

Click here for accompanying video










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Tuesday, March 27, 2012